Crossing Larkya La Pass — what nobody tells you

Short version: You leave Dharmasala (4,460m) at 3am, reach Larkya La (5,106m) in 4–5 hours around sunrise, then descend four hours to green Bimthang. Expect −10°C to −15°C, packed snow above 4,800m in season, and a hard but unforgettable day. Real down and trekking poles are essential.

I have crossed Larkya La more than 40 times. Here is what actually happens.

The night before

You sleep at Dharmasala teahouse, 4,460m. Dinner at 6pm, lights out by 7:30pm. Nobody sleeps well — altitude, nerves, cold. That's normal. The teahouse is basic, one blanket; use your down jacket as a second.

3am — the start

Your headlamp is the only light for the first two hours. The trail is rocky, then snow. In October there's usually packed snow from about 4,800m up. Temperature: −10°C to −15°C, and with windchill on the pass it can feel like −25°C. This is exactly why real down is non-negotiable.

The summit

You reach Larkya La (5,106m) roughly 4–5 hours in, usually just before sunrise. Himlung, Cheo Himal, and Annapurna II in the dawn light are the moment everyone comes for. Stay 10–15 minutes, no more — the descent is long.

When I turn clients back

I watch for three things: a severe headache that won't respond to ibuprofen, loss of coordination, or confusion. Any one of them and we descend immediately — no negotiation. In 40+ crossings I've turned back twice. Both clients thanked me later.

The descent to Bimthang

Four hours downhill. Knees complain. But the valley below — green, warm, yaks grazing — feels like another planet after the pass. The hardest part of the Manaslu Circuit is behind you.

Planning your Larkya La crossing? Message me on WhatsApp — happy to talk you through the pass day.